For12 months in 1984-85, Karen and Terry Whitehill, members of Temple Baptist Church, Portland, Ore., toured Europe on a 11,OOO-mile bike trip. Now they are back in Europe again, this time on a yearlong walk from Paris to Jerusalem. Along the way Karen will be informing STANDARD readers of their progress, including blisters, new friends, and sites of religious significance.
It was cool
and overcast as we set out from our small hotel in the heart of Paris on a
weekday morning in late April. We
walked quickly through the busy streets, dodging women wielding long baguettes
and businessmen carrying briefcases. A
shared anticipation made us hurry on. My
husband Terry and I were already thousands of miles and several hours of flying
time away from our home in Portland, Oregon. But our journey was yet to begin.
I scanned the
skyline ahead of us. There it was,
rising out of the jumble of stores and businesses and traffic in the center of
Paris-the Tour St.
Jacques. It's an
old structure, a tower dating back to the Middle Ages.
It's the lone remnant of a vast church called St. Jacques de la Boucherie
(St. James of the Butcher Shops). Today
the meat markets that gave the church its colorful name are gone. In fact, there's no sign of the church at all-just a solitary tower ruled
by a statue of St. James the Greater and a handful of gargoyles.
Half a Million a Year
The Tower and the small park surrounding it are
easy to overlook. Yet it was that
tower that brought Terry and me to Paris and before us, it brought hundreds of
thousands more.
What brought farmers and herds men, shopkeepers
and millers, priests and princes to the heart of Paris to gather at the Tour St.
Jacques each spring? They came to
begin a pilgrimage.
From this
spot in the core of Paris, Christians from France,
England, Scandinavia and the
countries of the Rhine would set out each year on a thousand-mile walk.
Their goal was Santiago de Compostela
in the north-west corner of Spain
and the great cathedral built above the legendary tomb of the apostle
James.
As many as
half a million people a year traveled to Santiago de Compostela during the
height of the pilgrimage in the eleventh and twelfth centuries. And the Spanish city soon outpaced its sister cities in
Rome
and Jerusalem in the number of pilgrims it brought in. The route was lined with great churches, monasteries and
shrines. Charitable institutions
along the way provided pilgrims with their bed and bread. "
The Sign of the Scallop Shell
Terry and I
shrugged out of our heavy backpacks, piled high with sleeping bags and tent, and
we leaned them at the tower base. The
scallop shells we had hung from our pack frames rattled in the morning air .These would be our emblems on the road to
Santiago. These would be our pilgrim's badge for the scallop shell is the sign of
the pilgrimage, and the route is marked with the shell all along the way.
I stopped a
man who was hurrying off to work, and he smiled and snapped our picture as we
stood beside the tower that marked our journey's start. We bowed our heads together and prayed quietly, asking God's
presence and protection in the coming months.
Then we began to walk. We
turned south through the city, covering the few blocks to the Cathedral of Notre
Dame.
We had
visited the church the night before, and we'd sat in the cool semidarkness and
listened to the chanting of an evening mass. The pilgrims who left from the Tour
St. Jacques attended a mass as their last act before departure, and they brought
along their walking staffs to have them blessed by the priests.
We had no
staffs to lean on as we made our way through Paris that morning, but we knew we
had the prayers of our church family back in Portland to support us on our
pilgrimage.
Paris'
traffic roared around us as we continued on past Notre Dame. We were headed for
Etampes, then on to Orleans and the Loire
River. We walked along a street that has run through Paris for centuries, a
street called the Rue St.
Jacques.
Not Too Many Pilgrims Lately
I followed Terry on the crowded sidewalks, past bakeries and vegetable shops, and I
wondered how many pairs of pilgrims' feet had trod this path before me. Other pedestrians stared at us with unmasked curiosity. Apparently, there haven't been many pilgrims this way of late, I
thought.
What was it that had brought two Baptists from the West Coast of the United States all the
way to France to devote a year to tracing a 4000 mile pilgrimage---first to
Santiago de Compostela, then to Rome and, finally, to Jerusalem? What made a 31-year-old engineer and a 28-year old journalist say
goodbye to their families and friends, give up their apartment, forsake the financial
security of steady jobs and set off on a yearlong walk?
I knew as we drew away from Paris that day that
these were questions we would be asked many times in the corning months. I prayed that we would have the right answers to give.
That Question Again
Eight days
out of Paris, with 100 miles behind us, tender feet beneath us, sunburned faces
and weary legs, we
were being asked those Questions once again. Our inquisitors were two young French women we had met that
morning on a long-distance footpath beside the Loire River west of Orleans.
They were traveling our way that day, so we decided to join them and
talk.
Their English was good (luckily, since our French is not), and they were fascinated by the
story of our pilgrimage, amazed that we planned to devote an entire year to
walking to Santiago, Rome and Jerusalem, three of the most revered cities of
Roman Catholic pilgrimage.
Aline was a
short, dark-haired teacher of 33, and Sylvie was a soft- spoken computer analyst
of 27. They had been to Santiago de
Compostela the year before, following the route through Spain for one month.
They were eager to tell us about their trip.
We walked together and savored the sun and the early spring blooms, pointing out boats on
the river and calves in the fields. They
told us about their journey in Spain, and described the ceremony we hope to
attend in Santiago this year on July 25~the Feast Day of St. James.
But they were French and Roman Catholics. It was
natural that they should go to Santiago on a pilgrimage. For us, it was different, and they didn't understand.
"You are Protestant, and you are American,” Aline said, shaking
her head. “Why do you go on a Catholic pilgrimage?"
I looked at
Terry, and he smiled and shrugged. There
was that question again.
First of All Christians
How could we
explain? We had agreed together to
dedicate ourselves to a year of being set apart, a year of Bible study and
prayer, a year of memorizing Scripture and meditating on it as we walked. It was to be a year of trusting God to provide for our safety and our
needs, a year of exploring our Christian heritage. How could I say all
that?
“We are
very close to God as we walk,” I explained to our new friends. We pray and read the Bible and we talk.
We want to be pilgrims, to understand how the pilgrims felt.
We want to learn more about the Catholic Church and about Christian
history.
"James is important to us, not because he is a Catholic saint, but because he is a
disciple of Jesus Christ.”
Aline nodded
and smiled. "I see," she
said. You are like me. I am a Christian first. Then
I am a Catholic.”
We smiled happily. We said. “First we are Christians. Then
we are Protestants."
“1 think we
have not met many pilgrims like you," Sylvie said, "and not many
Americans either.”
Lunch Stop in Beaugency
We continued on together along the riverbank, watching the current tug at trees and grass,
and we talked of many things. We agreed to stop for lunch in the riverside town of
Beaugency.
As we left the river to enter the city core, we climbed through cobbled streets.
Our first stop was at Beaugency's
cathedral, a Romanesque church dating
back to the twelfth century. We
pushed through the door and stepped into the cool silence within.
The four of us stood at the back of the church and admired the nave together.
Though not as large as the cathedrals in Paris or Orleans, Beaugency's
cathedral has a simple grace -stout stone pillars and a chancel lit by stained
glass. Sylvie read from her
Michelin Green Guide in French. Terry
read from our English edition.
Aline was deep in conversation with a dark-robed priest.
I listened in. She was
telling him about our pilgrimage-Santiago, Rome, Jerusalem. He nodded excitedly, repeating the phrases after her in
amazement.
They turned
to us, and the priest took Terry's hand in his.
"You are pilgrims to Santiago de Compostela?" he
asked. We nodded, smiling. “You
will walk the entire way?" We
nodded again. “And you are Americans? "Yes," we said.
His eyes were damp. "You are the first American pilgrims I have ever seen in my church.
Come,
I will show you where the pilgrims pray."
We talked together for a few minutes more. Then it was time for the priest to leave.
He
touched Terry's arm once more as he walked away. "Have a good journey," he said, then added simply,
"You will pray for us?"
"Yes," we answered.
“And I will pray for you.”
Answer to Prayer Comes in Unusual Packages Sometimes
We reveled in May sunshine and lovely
scenery as we followed the meandering Loire River
west toward Tours, the second
major stop on the pilgrim route from Paris. Our feet still hadn't adjusted to
the hardship of life on the road, and we were anticipating a much-needed day
off when we limped into Tours on an overcast Monday afternoon.
The medieval pilgrims would have turned their steps
immediately toward the great basilica built for St. Martin in the eleventh
century , but we didn't have the luxury our predecessors had of knowing that a
pilgrim hospice awaited. So we began our visit with a search for a campground.
An hour later, we were comfortably settled in at a riverside site. We shared a
lunch of bread and cheese, then zipped up our tent and set out to visit the
churches of Tours.
Terry led the way through the city streets, relying on
a map in our guidebook. I followed behind, eyeing postcard racks and bakery
windows and avoiding flying mopeds.
Our first stop was the Cathedral of St.
Gatien, a
Gothic church with an interior lit by rays streaming through beautiful stained
glass. From St. Gatien, we wound our way toward the Basilica of St. Martin and
the tomb that once drew pilgrims by the thousands.
Half a Coat Is Better Than None
St. Martin was a Roman soldier who became a great Christian bishop.
According to legend, while still a soldier, Martin saw a beggar shivering in the cold. He drew out his sword and cut his cloak in half, and gave
one half to the shivering man. Roman soldiers were forbidden by law to return from their duty with anything less than half their belongings.
So Martin gave all that he could.
That night in a dream he saw Jesus Christ wearing the coat that he had given to the beggar. The Roman soldier became a dedicated Christian. Soon he was the bishop of Tours, responsible for the evangelization of much of the Loire Valley.
When Martin died, his body was buried at Tours and a massive
basilica erected on the spot. Pilgrims bound for Santiago de Compostela halted at Tours to pray.
Today only two stout towers remain. Ravaged by war and handed
a death warrant by urban renewal projects, the massive church is no more. But a modern basilica has been erected in its place, and its crypt holds St. "Martin's tomb.
We opened the door and went inside. All was silent in the church. Incense permeated the air.
We
padded down the steps to the darkened crypt, and then sat staring at the ornate altar above Martin's grave.
I tried to imagine the awe that medieval Christians must have felt as they listened to the chanting of a
mass in such a place. I watched as an elderly woman lit a long white candle and placed it in a rack beside the tomb, and I bowed my head as she knelt and prayed.
Yes, it was an inspiring spot for
me to visit-but not because St. Martin's bones were encased in
stone inside that crypt. I knew the real Martin was enjoying the fellowship
of his Lord that afternoon. The importance of the basilica could be found
in the man's life rather than in his death. Martin's example in giving of
himself to help his brother was the lesson I prayed that I could take with me
when I left.
So This Is How a Pilgrim Feels
Terry and I spent that
day and the next exploring Tours. Then we abandoned the Loire River and turned
south toward Poitiers, walking through gently rolling farmland, past fields
green with young barley.
The scenery was lovely, but the day was long. With painful
blisters on my toes, a sore arch and an aching knee, I was feeling
miserable. Terry limped along on tender feet, studying his map for the
best way to get us to Ste. Maure and our lodgings for the night. It was
after six when we finally climbed the last hill before the city. There before
us, rising out of the fields, the tower of the church stood like a sentinel.
I let out a weary sigh. I knew what it was to be a pilgrim at
that moment, to be exhausted and beaten to the point of tears, to be hungry and
discouraged and ready to quit. And I knew what it was to feel the joy that the
sight of a church tower could bring. It was a reminder of my faith.
It was a promise of rest.
From Ste. Maure, we continued on, bound for Poitiers.
We decided to take the weekend off in Poitiers, and we left
our hotel room early on Sunday morning to wander the sunlit streets.
We
stopped to examine the fourth-century baptistry , the oldest Christian building
in France. The music of a morning mass beckoned us into the church named
for Ste. Radegonde, a sixth-century queen of France.
We claimed seats in the back, and sat and
shivered in the cold sanctuary while the beauty of the building warmed our
hearts. The worshipers around us whispered the service in their singsong French.
A tall, gray- haired priest led them from the altar .
I let the foreign phrases wash over me, and my
gaze wandered to the carved stone figures on the wall above my head. One impish
fellow scowled at me and stuck out his tongue-my penalty for forgetting to
listen to the sermon, no doubt. The Romanesque stone carvings in this part of
France are often called "sermons in stone," and their themes come
straight from the pages of the Bible-the rewards of the
virtuous, the
punishments of the wicked, the majesty of Christ. They were our sermons that
morning too, and we worshiped silently in our own tongue.
Dark Skies and Tender Feet
We set out from Poitiers on a
dazzling Monday morning, our packs heavy with the extra food we carried for the
one day when most of France's storekeepers close up shop. A brown baguette poked
out of the top of Terry's pack. A hunk of cheese and two red tomatoes nestled
against my back. Our steps were light after our day of rest.
We found a campground in Lusignan
and pitched our tent beside the river. We slept restlessly while the church
bells rang out the hour all night long. The rain came just after midnight.
The next morning the skies were gray and bleak. We had walked too far the day
before. We were weary and our feet were sore. Our spirits matched the skies. The morning was a numbing trudge through fields of grass.
Terry's feet were tender, my body was spent. We walked in silence, listening to
our thoughts.
We ate lunch on a gravel side road, spreading my jacket on the
ground so we would have a place to sit.
The afternoon dragged on. We practiced the Scripture verses
we'd been memorizing, reciting them aloud to curious cows. We fell into silence
again, pushing on toward St.
Vincent la Chatre, a town plucked off the map as our goal for the day.
It
was nearly five by the time we reached the small community, really just a
handful of farms and houses scattered around a run-down church.
Too Tired to Look For a Place to Sleep
We headed for the small stone church and stripped off our packs
to go inside. The darkness enveloped us. We sank wearily onto wooden chairs and stared at ancient walls.
The day had robbed us of enthusiasm. We knew we needed to find a spot to sleep,
but we didn't have the energy to look. I took off my shoes and assessed my
burning feet. Terry closed his eyes and prayed.
When we emerged from the church a few minutes later, a woman
working in the garden next door called out a greeting and smiled. We walked
over to the fence to talk. She had close-cropped gray hair beneath a weathered
felt beret. She was stocky and short, with slightly bowed legs that showed beneath a faded cotton smock.
She was a farmer's wife, and
hard-working. Was she also an answer to our prayers?
I began to talk, summoning my broken French to tell her about our
pilgrimage to Santiago, pointing to the scallop shells on our packs. Yes, she knew of the pilgrimage.
She had a friend in the next town who had gone to Santiago on horseback.
She was friendly and receptive. I decided to take the plunge.
"Can
we sleep beside the church?" She hesitated only as long as it took her to
understand. Then, "oui," she said, and flew into action. She showed us
where we could get water, pointed out the public toilets nearby, and showed us
where to put our tent.
I left Terry to set the tent up in the long grass beside the church
while I followed our Good Samaritan across the street to her house. She led me
to a sink and ran hot water into it, motioning that we were free to come and use it.
She took me into her kitchen and showed me a large stove. Her pantomime told me that
we could cook our dinner there.
A fire crackled fiercely in an open fireplace. Above it on the
wall was a wooden cross. The woman touched my arm and pointed to the cross.
Then
she smiled and put her hand against her heart. I nodded and smiled back, murmuring heartfelt thank you's for her kindness.
She put four eggs
in a paper sack and gave them to me before I left. Did we need any milk, she wondered, motioning toward the cows out back.
I called out a final thank you and an au revoir as I
turned back toward Terry and the tent. Suddenly the day didn't seem so bleak.
We
had a place to sleep. We had a new friend. And we had a God who answers prayers in every language and in every land.
Crossing the Pyrenees: Wind and Rain and Misery
During the final weeks
of May we walked south and west to the pilgrimage cities of Saintes,
Blaye and Bordeaux.
We took two days off in the sprawling port of Bordeaux, visiting its churches
and wandering its streets. Then it was time to make the final push toward Spain.
For four exhausting days we trudged south, traveling through a part of France
known as the Landes.
It's a lonely expanse of pine trees and sand, and towns are far apart. We
walked long days-22 miles, 25 miles, 20 miles, 20 miles again. We slept in
church yards in between.
Our days were filled with ruler straight roads, trees and
ferns and sun. The roadsides cheered us with daisies and buttercups,
I watched the lines of pines and thought a pilgrim's thoughts: What will
we eat tonight? Where will we sleep? When will the miles ever pass?
We pushed on toward Dax and the edge of the forest, trying to
quiet our complaining muscles and entertain our minds. Neither one was an
easy task. We practiced the Scripture verses we'd been memorizing,
reciting them out loud. We took turns praying for family and
friends. We sang all the choruses we could remember. We counted the
strides in a kilometer-1208 for Terry, more than 1300 for me. No wonder we
had blisters on our blisters,
We slept one night in St.
Palais, and the next morning set out for a crossroads known as Gibralter.
It is here in the foothills of the Pyrenees that three of the four major pilgrim
routes to Santiago merge into one. In the heyday of the Santiago
pilgrimage during the Middle Ages, this was where pilgrims from a host of
nations finally met.
Not a Very Good Start
It was an exciting moment for us. A surly farm dog was
the only one we had to share it with. We lingered at the small monument that
marks the joining of the ways, ignoring the barking while we took some
photographs. Then we struck out up the single pathway to the south,
watching as the shoulders of the Pyrenees pushed into the clouds. The
narrow road climbed steeply, past fields of scrub and rock.
Three Dutch pilgrims had told us about a woman in St. Jean
named Madame Debril. She is the official hostess for the scores of
Pilgrims who begin their treks here, and she was the one we needed to see to get
our first pilgrim's stamp.
It's traditional for those who follow the way of St. James in
Spain to request stamps in all the major stops along the route, to certify that
they have completed the pilgrimage faithfully. When a pilgrim arrives at
Santiago with his collection of stamps, he is given a certificate called a
"Compostela."
It is his trophy of the pilgrimage.
We found her house easily. It was marked with a scallop shell. I
knocked on the door and waited, then knocked again. Slowly the door swung open,
and a middle-aged woman in a cotton bathrobe squinted at us from a dark hallway.
She had topsy-turvy gray hair, and she looked as though we'd roused her from her
bed. Not a good start.
Watch Out for Georges
I smiled politely. "We are
pilgrims," I said, in very
inadequate French. I made a stamping motion with my hand. She nodded and waved
us. "Hollanders?" she grunted, rather grumpily. "Americans,"
Terry said. Her interest was aroused at once. She hadn't seen many American
pilgrims. She motioned us into chairs.
Madame Debril sat behind a large desk littered with scraps of paper,
pens and books. A scallop shell balanced precariously on an edge. We began to
tell her about our trip, how we hope to combine the three great Christian
pilgrimages of the Middle Ages into a yearlong journey to Santiago, Rome and
Jerusalem. She listened attentively. scribbling notes in a large folder she called her
"Golden Book."
Then we sat back and listened as she talked about the pilgrimage to
Santiago, trying to absorb the wealth of knowledge she possessed. She talked of the churches and cities along the route with tenderness, as though she were speaking of beloved friends.
After 90 minutes, we finally said goodby, but we promised to return for a photograph that
afternoon when she was dressed.
We met another pilgrim that day in the house of Madame Debril.
His name was Georges, and he was a 63-year-old purchasing agent from Belgium.
Georges had left his wife and family at home to pursue a dream of making the pilgrimage to Santiago. Although he planned to cover part of the route by bus, he would cross the
Pyrenees on foot.
We could tell he was nervous about the trek. We promised to watch for him the next day as we made our
own journey through the mountains.
Follow the Yellow-Splashed Road
We ate breakfast at 7 the next morning and by 8 were tramping into the hills on a narrow asphalt road.
Yellow splashes of paint marked the way. These were the indicators Madame Debril had said to look for.
The first two hours of walking were lovely. Clouds wisped across
the emerald hills, dragging behind the wind like the tails of unseen kites.
White sheep speckled the fields
below. At 11 a.m. we reached the clouds, and soon we were hiking through heavy mist.
A chilly wind rushed across the hillsides, and soon the mist became a rain.
We thought about Georges, wondering if he were somewhere ahead. An hour later, we spotted
him. He was on the next ridge, a small dark form moving in the fog.
He waved at us. We waved back and hurried to catch him.
He seemed glad to see us. "We've been thinking about you," Terry told him. "We were hoping we would find you."
We added gloves and raincoats to our layers of clothes. Then the three
of us continued up the hill. It had been five hours since we'd eaten, but it was too cold to stop. Georges
walked beside us, his staff tapping the trail with every other step. We talked about our families and our
homes. We talked about the pilgrimage.
Spain Was No Improvement
The weather worsened as we went on, and an icy wind threw
rain against our faces and pushed us back the way we'd come. We reached a
forested ridge top and a wire fence. Georges studied his map through
dripping spectacles. "That's Spain on the other side," he said.
"We're at the top." We had hoped the clouds would vanish when we
crossed the ridge, but, if anything, it was colder and wetter in Spain.
Somewhere on a rocky ridge top we lost our way. The
yellow paint had vanished. We chose a wrong road in the fog. Terry
noticed our error first, but not until we'd descended half a mile. We turned
around and climbed again.
Georges had been doing great until that moment. But the
unexpected exertion at the end of an exhausting afternoon began to take its
toll. He was breathing hard and his face was flushed. His eyes looked worried.
"I must stop and rest," he said. We stood beside him, offering encouragement.
He studied his compass and his map. "Are you sure this is right?" he asked Terry. "I cannot keep my bearings in this
weather." Terry
assured him we were on the correct route again.
We climbed some more. The mud was at our ankles.
Our
clothes were drenched. We were weak from hunger and fatigue. Georges was
breathing hard again. I suggested another rest. "I must be careful," he
said, smiling an apology. "I have a wife and five children, you see."
We
continued on, with 18 miles behind us since breakfast. The terrain leveled at last.
There, below us in the clouds, we could just make out the small church at Ibaneta.
This was the
sight that thousands of pilgrims before us had prayed for, the legendary pass
of Roncesvalles. Georges
was smiling again.
Never Alone
We started down. The descent was steep and jarring, painful on
tender knees and cold feet. We reached the church at last, and stripped off our
packs and went inside. Georges bowed his head over a small devotional book.
Terry and I whispered silent
prayers of thanks. We devoured a few handfuls of peanuts, then we lifted our packs again.
We had one mile left to go. We walked three abreast,
congratulating each other on our crossing of the Pyrenees, talking of the beds
and food we would find at the monastery where we planned to spend the night.
"Will you call your wife to tell her you made it
safely?" I asked Georges. "Yes, she will be anxious," he said.
He
could hardly keep the elation from his voice.
"I'm glad we were with you," Terry said.
"It's not good to be by yourself in this weather." "Yes," Georges said. "I told my wife not to worry before I left. I told her that
I would never be alone on my pilgrimage. And you see, I had you to walk
with."
I squeezed Terry's hand, and we exchanged happy looks.
It had
been a miserable day of wind and rain and cold. We had seen little more than
clouds and fog. We were exhausted and hungry. But the joy we felt at sharing our
crossing of the mountains with a fellow pilgrim was not a joy that depended on circumstances.
It was the joy that only the Lord can
give, the joy of never being alone.
Thankful Pilgrims, Groaning Stomachs, Happy Hearts
We woke to our first morning in Spain
at the Monastery of Roncesvalles on June 5. It had been a restless night. Our
muscles twitched from our 18-mile hike across the Pyrenees. The room
turned cold when the fire died out at 3, and the sound of the rain against our
window was the backdrop to our dreams. The monastery at the pass of
Roncesvalles has been giving refuge to wet and weary Santiago pilgrims for a
thousand years, and I felt a thrill of excitement when I realized we had become
a part of such a long tradition even if my body ached.
Terry straightened up our room while I loaded up the
backpacks, then we went out into the softly falling rain. We stopped at the
small hotel beside the monastery to say goodby to Georges, the Belgian pilgrim
who had shared our hike across the pass, leaving him to rest at Roncesvalles
another day. Then we set out through a cold and steady drizzle, bound for
Pamplona, 25 miles away. We were hoping that, once we escaped the shadow
of the Pyrenees, the weather would improve.
Dark clouds and a chilly wind welcomed us to Pamplona,
and we climbed beside ancient ramparts to enter the city at the pilgrims'
gate. Pamplona was Spain as I had pictured it, narrow streets swarming with
cars and people, canaries trilling from wrought-iron balconies, laundry flapping
between the buildings overhead, countless tiny shops with windows crammed with
bread and sausages.
West with the Yellow Arrows
From Pamplona, our route swung west at last.
Our six-week journey from Paris had taken us mostly south. Now we turned our
faces toward Santiago
de Compostela, 400 miles ahead. The weather improved markedly as we
left the Pyrenees, and we traced a well-marked route through fields and towns,
walking on small roads and worn footpaths. The ancient pilgrim way in Spain is
marked with bright yellow arrows from the border all the way to Santiago, and we
followed the yellow splashes faithfully, thankful for the guidance they
provided.
We slept that night in a pilgrims refuge--a monastery that
has been beside the Calle Mayor for centuries. The next morning we moved on,
adding our footsteps to the echoes of Spain's history, crossing the Arga River
on a bridge built for Santiago pilgrims 800 years before. A few days
later, we were walking in the footsteps of the pilgrims again, following stone
pathways creased by centuries of wooden wagon wheels. The yellow arrows directed
our steps
A Lesson from a Lamb
We were eating a cold dinner of fruit and yogurt, too
tired and too hot to cook, when a shepherd led his flock homeward past our
tent. I reached for my camera to capture the moment, and the shepherd
paused at our door, curious about our presence in the field. We told him
we were walking to Santiago. He nodded and smiled. He had a small
burlap sack over his shoulder, and he gestured toward it, offering to show us
what was inside. We nodded that we'd like to see his treasure. He
overturned it gently on the grass. A newborn lamb tumbled out before
us. It struggled to stand on fragile legs. "When was it
born?" I asked. "This very hour," the shepherd said, and
the wonder in his eyes matched ours.
Oh, but there were nights that were difficult as well-nights
when we were homesick, tired and discouraged. Sometimes it was a small
occurrence that marred the day, a disgruntled shopkeeper, a careless word, an
argument. Other times it was something at home that tugged
at our hearts, a birthday we were missing, a holiday, a Sunday service at our
church. I turned to my journal at those times, recording my
thoughts. "Why am I so dull tonight? " I wrote one
evening. "It was an easy day, and we walked the 800th mile of our
trip. I'm a little homesick, a little weary. I'm ruffled inside, and
I'm not sure where to find my peace. Lord, fold me into Your bag and carry
me, a trembling lamb who cannot walk alone."
Two New Companions
The next morning, we set out for Villafranca
del Bierzo under blue skies. The main road was nasty with cars and trucks,
but our yellow arrows took us on farming tracks through fields and small
villages. We stopped to gather lunch supplies in Carcabelos, and we spotted two men with backpacks sitting at an outdoor
cafe. They called out greetings as we passed, and we paused to talk.
Heinz and Wolfram were pilgrims from northern
Germany. Heinz was 49, a trim-looking nuclear engineer with a quick smile and
sparkling blue eyes. Wolfram was 60, tall and distinguished and a bit
reserved. They were just finishing their drinks, and Heinz suggested that we
walk together that afternoon. We agreed at once, and we set out happily, talking as we
went.
The scenery was lovely-rolling hills, leafy vineyards, apple orchards and distant purple mountains. We passed along
hillsides overwhelmed with vines. Heinz told us about their journey from
Roncesvalles and we told them about our walk from Paris, explaining our plans to
continue on to Rome and Jerusalem from Santiago. Heinz asked us what our
motivation was for such a pilgrimage. I smiled and whispered a thank you prayer as Terry told him about the spiritual
goals that were the basis for our trip. The sun grew fierce as the afternoon wore on, and Wolfram began to falter on the hills.
We paused in the shade of a chestnut tree while he caught his breath.
"My heart is not so good, " he said to Terry as he wiped the sweat from his forehead with a handkerchief.
Heinz shook his head and frowned. His eyes were worried. "This journey is too hard
for him," he said quietly to me. "He is not in good health."
We continued on, winding through vineyards on overgrown paths,
pausing to wait for Wolfram on the hills. We arrived in Villafranca at last. It was almost 3, and Terry and I were famished.
We said goodby to Heinz and Wolfram on the edge of town, leaving them to search for a hotel while we hunted for a quiet spot to pitch our tent.
Passage Through the Portal of Pardon
We devoured our lunch in the shade of the stout little twelfth-century church dedicated to St. James, sitting on the steps in front of the most famous feature-an ancient doorway covered with carvings.
That doorway is called the, "Portal of Pardon." The story behind that portal seemed
particularly real to me that day, and Terry and I talked about it as we ate, thinking of our walk with Heinz and Wolfram.
Beyond Villafranca, the pilgrim way to Santiago becomes very difficult, with one high pass and
several deep river valleys. The medieval pilgrims who made the journey were greatly comforted when they arrived
at this church portal in Villafranca, for the portal had great
significance. Any pilgrim who was too weak to continue on to Santiago
from Villafranca and there were lots of them, as the many pilgrim graves along
the route give evidence-had only to reach the Portal of Pardon at the church,
and his pilgrimage was complete. If his illness worsened, he would die
peacefully in Villafranca, believing he had accomplished the spiritual task he
had begun.
The next morning, Wolfram was still too weak to walk, and we
set off for the ridge top city of El
Cebreiro with Heinz alone, while Wolfram made the journey by
bus. Our day of walking was filled with fine scenery and much talk, and
we followed a river valley gradually upward, then turned steeply uphill to
reach the ridge top. Heinz listened as Terry and I practiced the 70
Scripture verses we'd learned, smiling as we gasped for breath between
sentences.
Wolfram was waiting for us at El Cebreiro's church, and he was
rested and alert. His bus trip had gone well, he said, and he was feeling
a little stronger with the day off. The four of us shared a supper of
soup and bread and eggs in the hotel dining room that night, and we agreed to
go at our own speeds the following day and to meet at the Monastery
of Samos the next night. Some other travelers had told us that the
monastery provided fine lodgings for pilgrims, and we convinced Heinz and
Wolfram that they should stay there with us.
Our friends started early the next morning, and they were
ahead of us the entire day. It was after 5 by the time Terry and I
dragged into Samos, parched and weary from a 20-rnile walk. Heinz and
Wolfram were waiting for us, and a short, dark-haired monk in a long black robe
led us to our rooms.
International Friendship over A Communal Meal
Another pilgrim arrived as we unpacked--a silver-haired
French cyclist. Terry and I had shopped for supper with guests in mind,
and we invited everyone to join us for a communal meal. Terry stirred a
pot of chicken soup, spiced with onion and green pepper. I set out cheese
and a massive loaf of thick-crusted Spanish bread. The French cyclist
offered a bag of peaches, and Wolfram unveiled a Swiss chocolate bar for our
dessert. Heinz made the most important contribution - he translated a
constant flow of English, French, and German as we ate and talked.
The monk came in again at 8, and he beamed as he saw us
sitting around our wooden table with the remains of our feast spread before us.
We were sipping coffee, laughing and telling pilgrims' stories in three
languages. The monk had another in tow; a bearded Spaniard who had walked
from Madrid. Terry grabbed another chair and offered the footsore
traveler a seat. We asked the monk to join us too, but he was off to
evening prayers. I could tell by the sparkle in his eyes that he approved
highly of this international potluck of pilgrims.
We went off to our room at last, with groaning stomachs and
happy hearts. We fell asleep whispering praises for the joy the Lord had
given us that night. What did it matter that we were a collection of different
people beneath that roof - two American Protestants, two German Catholics, an
aging Frenchman, a young Spaniard and a monk? For one brief moment, our common pilgrimage
through life had brought us all together-to share, to laugh, to care and
our differences simply hadn't mattered. Each one of us was a part of
God's creation, and each one of us had felt His joy that night.
Joy in Santiago: Worship, Friends, Respite
It was hot, stifling hot, and we were
walking along the shoulder of a busy main road. Trucks rumbled past,
choking us with their hot exhaust. Cars sped by flinging gravel.
We'd come almost 20 miles that day, and I was weary and fed up. Terry
paused ahead of me, studying his map. "I think we can turn off
here," he said. "That's Mount Joy on the left."
We swung away from the road and entered a small village.
Suddenly, the bustle and noise of modem Spain was behind us. We were
walking past ancient houses built of piled stones. A donkey stared at us
from beneath a shaded porch. Chickens sprinted across the dusty
road. We climbed steadily, sweating in the hot July sun.
"This is it," I thought to myself. "This
is the moment we've been working toward for the past 11 weeks." I
tried to imagine what the medieval pilgrims must have felt as they scrambled up
this hill. Mon joie the French called it-my joy. Most of them
would have been running by then, racing for the summit. For it was from
the crest that they would get their initial glimpse of the cathedral towers of
Santiago de Compostela. The first pilgrim in each group who spotted the
cathedral would cry out in a voice filled with elation.
We walked together, hand in hand. and we emerged on an open mound of
rocks and sagebrush. The sun was in our faces as we stared toward the west.
"My joy," Terry shouted. "There it is!" I followed the
line of his outstretched arm. Yes, I could just make out the three dark
towers above the buildings of the city.
"Thank You, Lord," I whispered. "Thank You for 1100 miles.
Thank You for our joy."
Only Three or Four Miles to Go
We pitched our tent on the crest of the hill that night.
We
slept peacefully with the towers of the cathedral at our door. We woke as the
sun rose above the horizon, glowing golden on the land behind us, the Spanish
countryside that had absorbed our footsteps for the past five weeks.
No need to hurry. We knew the distance left to travel was
three or four miles at the most. As we lingered over breakfast, we thought of
our pilgrim friends-Heinz and Wolfram from Germany, Georges from Belgium, the
three Dutch men we'd met at the French border. We reminisced about the places
we'd seen, the people who'd shown us kindness, the ways the Lord had blessed us.
It was after nine when we finally took down the tent and
strapped on our packs. I picked up my walking stick. We shared a hug.
Then we
turned our faces toward the city, singing songs of praise as we went.
Destination Reached
The main road swallowed us. The trucks showered us with grit.
Soon, we were in the city's grip. We reached the
spot where the pilgrims' gate
once stood. I stopped to take a photograph.
A tall, blond man joined us as we journeyed on, his skin and his
shoes well-worn. "I bet he's a pilgrim," I whispered to Terry.
Sure
enough, he was. We talked together in piecemeal Spanish, as he didn't know
English and we were lost when he spoke Flemish. He had walked from Belgium-four months.
He shortened his long stride so we could keep up with him.
He had
been in Santiago for three days, so he was familiar with the city. Our new
friend led us through the twisted streets. He didn't even ask us where we
were headed. A pilgrim could have but one destination.
We came upon the cathedral suddenly. It sprang from the
buildings around it as if it had been a child playing hide-and-seek.
We stared up the massive towers with delighted grins. Our
blond-haired guide gestured toward the entrance.
We climbed a long flight of stairs to reach the cathedral's
west portal. Just inside the outer doors, the Romanesque carvings that make the church so
famous were spread before us. There was the statue of St. James that every
pilgrim longed to see. There was the image of the Lord above him-Christ in
majesty. And there below was the intricately sculptured tree of Jesse, a mass
of twisted roots sprung from lifeless granite.
A Happy Reunion
We walked to the 800-year-old carving and bowed our heads.
We pressed our fingers into the roots . There were five worn indentations in the
stone-the marks left by millions of reverent hands. We closed our eyes and
whispered our thanks for a safe journey.
When we looked up again, there was our German friend Heinz smiling at us. Wolfram was just outside the door.
They had made it too!
We exchanged handshakes and congratulations. Heinz led us
back to the cathedral sacristy to claim our "Compostela"--the official
document of the Santiago pilgrimage. A smiling priest recorded our journey in
his logbook and added his congratulations. It was a happy moment.
Heinz and Wolfram had arrived in the city the day before, and
were catching a train for home that afternoon. They told us how happy they
were to have found us again before they left. I tried to express to them how much their
friendship meant to us. We decided to walk to a nearby cafe and share a final hour together before
they caught their train.
Our talk was of Santiago and the pilgrimage, of ancient roads and
thousand-year-old churches, of the people we'd passed along the way. I talked
about the three Hollanders we'd met in early June and of our hopes to find them in Santiago.
Heinz spoke of
a French pilgrim who had become a special friend, and Wolfram told us about a
couple from Switzerland he'd spoken with one afternoon.
"What do you really think?" Heinz asked us as we sat
at our table and sampled tortillas and deep-fried peppers. "Do you really
believe the body of St. James is here in Santiago? " I smiled and shrugged.
Wolfram shook his head. "I think it doesn't really matter,"
Terry said. "I think it is the faith of a thousand years of pilgrims that makes
this city what it is. It is the people who come and believe in miracles that
make this a holy place."
I put my arms around Heinz and Wolfram before they left.
Terry shook their hands. Our eyes were damp with emotion. There were promises to
write, hopes expressed that we would meet again. They were leaving on a train for home.
We were walking on toward Rome. We were
on separate journeys. We lived very different lives. But briefly we had shared a few miles of a common
pilgrimage--and that is what makes
Santiago what it is.
A Bittersweet Time
We stayed in Santiago 15 days, resting our bodies
and restoring our energy. We explored the city and its vast cathedral.
We spent
long afternoons in the campground on the edge of town, lying in the sun beside our tent.
We telephoned our
families, savored the bundle of letters we picked up at the post office, wrote
postcards to our friends. It was a much-needed time of quietness.
Other pilgrims came and went. We said goodbye to the Belgian man
who'd met us on our first day. We had a happy reunion with our three Dutch
friends the night before they left. We found a young French couple that we'd
shared an afternoon walk with. We got to know three Spanish pilgrims, ate our
meals with them, attended an evening mass. One of them gave me his sombrero to
wear to Rome for him.
It was a bittersweet time for us, full of reunions and farewells. Our friends were going home. We were going on.
The Day We Had Been Waiting For
Finally, July 25 arrived. This was the day we were waiting for, the Feast of St. James, the biggest day in
Santiago's year. The city was packed with pilgrims and tourists. We rose at dawn and walked to the cathedral along still-silent streets.
The morning mass would be flooded with people. We wanted to be sure to get a
spot. This was the most solemn service of the entire festival, the one the
medieval pilgrims would have come for.
By 10 a.m. the cathedral was packed. We were squeezed
into our pew by a solid wall of bodies. There was no place to move. It was hot,
and the air was heavy with suspense. The mass began at 10:30. The service was long, full of ceremony and ritual.
We watched as representatives of the
Spanish government, the military and the highest levels of the church went
through their motions. There was pageantry, color and tradition. But there
were also television cameras, photographers and too many distractions. I
couldn't worship with so much going on.
I closed my eyes and prayed silently, praising God for all He had brought us through.
I thought of our new
friends, many of them already gone back to homes and jobs. I looked up at Terry and squeezed his hand.
I smiled at the French couple beside
us, bicycle pilgrims we'd met at the campground that week. They had become good
friends.
"Yes, it's good to be in this place," I thought, "good to praise God for His enduring love."
The next morning, Terry and I took down our tent.
We loaded our packs. I put the Spanish pilgrim's
sombrero on my head. A neighboring camper snapped our photograph with the
cathedral towers behind us. Our faces were bathed in the morning sun turned
east, toward Rome, toward Jerusalem. We huddled together and whispered prayers
of dedication and praise, remembering the chilly morning three months earlier
when we'd started out in Paris.
The Bible passage we'd been memorizing that week echoed
in my head. I whispered it as we walked: "As for man, his days are like grass, he flourishes like a flower of
the field; the wind blows over it and it is gone, and its place remembers it
no more. But from everlasting to everlasting the Lord's love is with those who
fear Him, and His righteousness with their children's children."
Cold Shower or Hot-God Gives and Gives
The first leg of their pilgrimage to ]erusalem completed,
Karen and Terry Whitehill now head for Rome.
"Don't go to Bilbao!"
How many times did we hear those words as we made our way east from Santiago de
Compostela, walking along the winding Spanish coast?
We heard it first from two German bicyclists before we left
Santiago's campground in July. We heard it a few weeks later from Luis and
Laura, a Spanish couple in Oviedo. "You don't want to go to Bilbao,"
they told us. "It's just a big city-nothing but
factories." And in Santander,
we heard it again. This time our self-appointed advisor was a precocious
11-year-old
named Gregorio. "Don't go to Bilbao," he told us. "It's
dangerous-lots of Basque terrorists."
So what were we doing walking directly toward that city on a
sultry Friday morning in late August? That's what I asked myself as a solid line
of cars moved past within four feet of my knees.
Bilbao just happened to be one of the cities we'd
plucked off our map when planning our pilgrimage in April. It was one of the
spots where our families and friends were sending letters. We'd told them we'd
pick them up at Bilbao's post office. Those letters were precious-our first ones in a month.
But we had
to face Bilbao to get them.
Response to Uncertainty: Prayer
In many ways, Bilbao was a small picture of our
pilgrimage. As I walked that day, I thought of all the joys we'd shared in the four months since we'd begun our journey in
Paris. Oh, there had been some suffering-pain, fear, homesickness. But I was
glad we'd come. "Don't go to Europe," our worried friends had told us.
"It's full of terrorists. It's too dangerous." But
we had prayed and planned and committed ourselves to a goal, and we knew that God would be with us.
I knew He was with us as we walked toward Bilbao too.
Terry began to fret as the sun got low. "I
don't know where we're going to camp tonight," he said. "There's nothing but
factories. But I think we'd better stop soon. If we go much farther, we'll be
into the city, and I don't want to have to look for a hotel room after dark."
Our plan had been to get as close to Bilbao as possible on Friday night, then walk in early on
Saturday to claim our mail. We were hoping the streets would be relatively
quiet that way. All we wanted to do was to get our letters and get out.
The sun dropped into a flaming red haze. I
felt the first raindrops from the clouds that had been following us all afternoon.
It
was almost dark, and we still didn't have a place to sleep. We'd learned what to
do in such situations. We were praying as we hurried on.
Warm Stew in the Darkness
Ten minutes later, I spotted a church on
a steep hill above the harbor. "How about up there?" I called to Terry
. "Looks good," Terry said. "Let's give it a try."
We started up the hill. A few minutes later, we were at
the church. It was run-down and deserted. "1 like it," I said.
We put up our tent beneath the
church's porch, tucking it into the corner so we'd be less visible. We ate a cold dinner of canned vegetables and potato chips.
We were glad to see the darkness come. It meant our presence had
gone undetected. Or so we thought.
We were sipping coffee by flashlight beam when we heard footsteps.
"Oh, great. Visitors," I moaned. Automatically, I began to pray, asking God's protection, asking that we wouldn't
have to move again. It was a prayer I'd whispered a hundred times since Paris. Terry unzipped
the door and looked out.
A man was walking toward us. He was short and stooped, with a heavy
sweater, baggy workpants, floppy slippers. We couldn't see his face in the darkness.
"Good evening," Terry said. "We are pilgrims. We are Americans."
He summoned the Spanish phrases we'd been practicing. The
man nodded and murmured replies. We told him we'd been to Santiago and that we
were walking to Rome. He seemed to understand.
Were we warm enough? he wanted to know. We showed our sleeping
bags. Did we have food? We pointed to our packs. Did we need anything -bread,
water, milk? We shook our heads. He mumbled something and shuffled off. I had a
feeling he'd be back.
Five minutes later, he was at our door again. He had a dish in
his hands, a heavy earthenware bowl that was warm when I took it from him.
Terry turned the flashlight into
it. It was filled with a thick vegetable stew. We murmured appreciatively
as we sampled it. He smiled and shrugged and said goodnight. Then he walked off into the darkness. "Welcome to
Bilbao," I
whispered to Terry as we lay down to sleep. "Thank You, Lord," he added.
Mail for Dessert
Our walk into Bilbao the next morning was
effortless. The streets were silent. The post office yielded our treasure
trove
of letters without a problem. We were eating a picnic lunch on the hillside outside the
city by two that afternoon-and when our sandwiches were finished, we had letters
from our families for dessert. Maybe Bilbao is big, dirty, full of industry,
and a little dangerous. But one man's kindness had given us encouragement. And
our prayers for protection had been answered once again.
A few days later, we were in the Spanish countryside once more,
making our way toward the French border and a fond farewell to Spain.
It had been four days since we'd had showers, and I was feeling grimy.
There was no prospect of a campground
for several days. I desperately needed a place to wash. "It's a
sunny, warm afternoon, Lord," I whispered. "Please help us find a
fountain where we can wash. I don't care how cold the water is."
Sure enough, that afternoon Terry spotted a small spring
tumbling out of a pipe set back in a field beside the road. The sun was hot.
The
water wasn't. "Perfect," I whispered. "Thank You, Lord."
We
doused our heads, shampooed and scrubbed, not caring about the curious looks we got.
When our heads were clean, we filled our water bottles and hiked on to a patch of trees.
We hid ourselves from the road and took shivering showers
in the pine needles.
"God is so good," I said to Terry as we snuggled in
our sleeping bags that night. "He provided us with that spring today just
when we needed it. An we had to do was ask."
Marvelous Spanish Hospitality
The next day, we walked more than 20 miles through steep hill
country and hot sun. We limped into a small village at 7 p.m. I was exhausted
and hungry. We stopped at a little grocery store to gather dinner and breakfast
supplies before we camped. Drenched with sweat, our showers seemed like
days in
the past.
"You go in and shop," Terry said, "I'll keep an eye on our packs."
His voice was weary. I knew he was
wondering where we'd sleep that night. I knew he'd be praying while I shopped.
I gathered our food, and Terry joined me as the woman rang up our
bill. She'd seen our packs, and she was curious.
A man behind us in line spoke English; he joined in as translator.
The woman spoke to him. He turned to us with a smile. "Do you want a
bath?" he said. I hesitated, not sure I'd understood. "She wants to
know if you want a bath," he repeated. "Yes-please," Terry answered
with a grin.
The woman turned the till over to her husband and led us
upstairs to the family's living quarters. Ten minutes later we emerged, washed and scrubbed
and marveling at Spanish hospitality. The woman appeared from the direction of
the kitchen. "Would you like something to eat?" she asked.
More Than We Asked For
Our dinner with the family was a jumble of clanging dishes,
piecemeal Spanish, and lots of hand motions. The 17-year-old daughter wanted to hear about America.
The father wanted to talk
about our journey. The mother liked to discuss politics. By the time we finished eating, it
was dark outside.
"We must go," I said. "Thank you so much.
We have to find a place to pitch our tent. The woman spoke to
her husband. He nodded. "We have an extra bedroom. You can sleep here tonight."
It was after eleven by the time we crawled wearily into bed.
Our stomachs were full, our bodies were clean, our dirty socks were revolving in
the washing machine. And our hearts were singing with thanks. "I'm so
amazed by God's goodness," I whispered to Terry. ''He just gives and
gives-even when we're not asking for anything more than a safe spot to put up our tent."
Terry shifted on the mattress with a contented sigh. "Well," he said
into the darkness, "I've got to admit -you prayed for a cold shower all day yesterday; I asked Him for a hot one today.
Thank You, Lord," he
whispered.
From the Pyrenees to a Soccer Field: God is Present
As summer faded into fall, our walk was a succession of
mountaintops and valleys, heights of joy and blessing interspersed with depths
of weariness and discouragement. We had been on the road for 19 weeks when
September came. We had almost 2000 miles of walking behind us. With those
miles we gained a wealth of happy experiences and new friendships.
Our memorization of Bible passages had blossomed into a harvest of
140 verses-selections from Psalms, Ephesians. James, Matthew and 2 Corinthians.
As the days of our pilgrimage passed, we saw over and over again
that God is faithful to the promises in His Word. Psalm 139, in particular, was
to gain special meaning for us in the next two months.
Celebrating at the Summit
The first weekend in September marked our sixth wedding
anniversary, and we celebrated at the crest of the Pyrenees. We had climbed all day
from Jaca, Spain, making the long ascent to Somport Pass and the
gate way into
France. It was late afternoon when we reached the summit, and the jagged faces of the mountains spread before us in all their magnificence.
That night, Terry pitched our tent on a mound behind the border
station, setting it right on the imaginary line between Spain and France. I felt
a touch of sadness, knowing I was leaving a country and a people I had grown to
love. But I was excited to be moving on, eager to find the roads that would lead
us toward Rome and Jerusalem.
We slept with a canopy of glowing stars above us
and the beauty of God's earth around us, with our feet in France and our hearts
in Spain.
"If I go up to the heavens, You are there," our Psalm told us (139:8).
We had much to be thankful for that night.
Autumn's Charm, a Pilgrim's Pain
We spent the rest of September making our way across southern
France. We walked long, hard days, visiting cathedrals and monasteries, sleeping in fields and campgrounds.
The weather was warm and dry, and the countryside was lovely with the charms of autumn.
"1 was excited to be moving on, eager to find the roads that would lead us toward Rome and
Jerusalem."
Near Montpellier, we watched delightedly as the vineyards came alive
with the grape harvest. Near Aries, the apple orchards sang with the voices of
the pickers. Near Aix
en-Provence, the silver branches of the olive trees
glistened in the sun. We sampled the sweet fruit of wild figs. We filled our
pockets with nuts from roadside almond trees and cracked open our bounty with
heavy rocks.
But sometimes the days of walking ended in weariness and
homesickness. Sometimes the final miles of the afternoon seemed like they would
never pass. Sometimes I didn't know if I could face another day of walking when
the morning sun came knocking at our tent.
September 29 was a day like that.
I poured out my heartache by candlelight while Terry cooked our dinner on the stove. "I'm tired tonight,"
I wrote in my journal. "I'm sick and tired of being a pilgrim. I'm tired of
fearing for my life on narrow roads. I'm tired of being stared at. I'm tired of
pain. And I'm tired of not having a home."
"If I make my bed in the depths, You are there," God's
Word promised me as I blew out the candle and crawled into my sleeping bag
that night. "If I rise on the wings of the dawn, if I settle on the far side
of the sea, even there Your hand will guide me, Your right hand will hold me
fast" (Ps. 139:8-10).
Pushing Toward Milan
With each day in October, winter was getting a little closer.
Darkness came too early, and light came too late. We crossed the border into
Italy on October 15. That night, the darkness nearly caught us before we
had a place to sleep. It was to be a recurring problem in the next few weeks.
We left the busy Italian coast road and turned north into the
solitude of the Maritime
Alps, starting our long push toward Milan and
Padua and
Venice before the southerly sprint to Rome. The days were cool and foggy.
The vineyards were bare and the trees
were golden. The smell of roasted chestnuts wafted through the streets of the
small Italian cities we walked through.
Milan lured us northward with the promise of its spectacular Gothic
cathedral, and we walked until dark each night in our eagerness to reach the
city. There were no campgrounds to offer us refuge or hot showers, and most of the villages we passed through
had no hotels. We tucked
our tent behind stands of unharvested corn or asked
farmers if we could camp beside their barns.
Soccer Field Lodging
One sunny Friday morning we woke to a vista of new snow
on the shoulders of the Alps. I shivered when I saw the frost on the
ground beside our tent. Perhaps it was the hint of winter that made us walk too
far that day. We covered 25 miles, and we were still walking when darkness
fell. We pushed on toward the nearest town. We had no water, and
without water, we would have no dinner soup.
We reached the outskirts of Bereguardo
a little after 6 p.m., praying as we hurried in. "Lord, please let us get off the road and find a place
to camp," I asked. Before we'd gone another block, I spotted our
answer on the left. It was the town soccer field-fenced and silent and very
dark. Perfect.
I left Terry to put up the tent beside an empty clubhouse while I walked the short distance into town to buy our breakfast and fill our
water bottles. We put on the rainfly before we crawled in, even though the sky was bright with stars.
We hoped it would act as a shield to keep our candlelight from betraying our presence in the darkness.
Terry was just starting to cook our dinner when we heard
a noise nearby. Someone was in the clubhouse. A light came on inside, spilling out the window and illuminating our tent.
"Oh no," I said. "Now what?"
Terry zipped down our door and peered outside. A man
appeared on the clubhouse porch. He stood there, staring at the tent.
For the
next few minutes, we exhausted our supply of Italian trying to explain our
presence. He smiled and nodded, whistling appreciatively when we told him we
were walking to Rome. Finally, Terry made an imploring gesture with his hand.
"May we
stay?" it said. The man smiled and shrugged. Apparently, it was fine with
him.
Humor and Hospitality
We went back to our cooking, breathing sighs of gratitude.
Our soup hadn't reached a boil before the first soccer player walked by, his cleats
clicking on the pavement as he passed our tent. A steady stream of athletes
began arriving as we ate our dinner, and we eavesdropped as the first man
explained our presence time and time again. He seemed to be the coach, and if it
was okay with him for us to be there, then it was okay with them. Still, I was
squirming a bit.
Terry was just assuring me that there couldn't possibly be a
soccer match that late at night when the floodlights above the field popped on.
Suddenly we were drenched in light I moaned. Terry started laughing.
'This could be an interesting night," he whispered.
"At least
we'll be assured of front row seats." I shook my head.
Somehow, his humor escaped me at that moment.
As it turned out, we'd only camped in the middle of a practice
session. Although our tent did get in the way of an errant soccer ball or two,
no one in the local soccer club seemed to mind our presence. In fact, the coach invited us into the clubhouse
for snacks and conversation when the workout was finished. And he offered to
leave us a key so we could sleep inside if it got too cold.
"The Night Will Shine"
We fell asleep that night a long time after the floodlights dimmed.
As we whispered our thank you's into the darkness, the words of Psalm 139:11-12,
seemed particularly appropriate. "If I say, 'Surely the darkness will hide me and the light become night
around me, even the darkness will not be dark to You; the night will shine
like the day, for darkness is as light to You."
"The Lord is so good," Terry said as he pulled our
sleeping bag tight around us. "He's so good."
Lord, Have Mercy on Us Poor Pilgrims
"Have mercy on us, O Lord, have mercy
on us, for we have endured much contempt" (Psalm 123:3). Words
from the Scripture passage we were memorizing echoed through my mind as I
followed Terry along the rain-drenched shoulder of SS 309, Italy's main Adriatic
coast road.
It was the middle of November and the weather was cold and
wet. We were walking on a truck-filled road, two days south of Venice,
bound for Ravenna and a
sixth-century church that holds some of the finest Byzantine
mosaics in the world.
Every trailer truck that roared past us threw up a drenching
spray of mist. The water dripped off my rain hat and dribbled down the
back of my neck. My feet squeezed streams of water out the sides of my
tennis shoes with every step. "What are we doing out in this?" I
wondered. The truck drivers wondered too, beeping their horns as loud
salutes as they drove by. Some flicked their headlights to capture our
attention, then grinned from behind their steering wheels as if to say,
"The two of you must be crazy to be out walking today." I
tried to smile back at them, but it was difficult. I, too, wondered a bit about
our sanity.
The teenagers in their speeding cars weren't as kind. They
peered out their windows, pointed and laughed. "Look at those two
idiots walking in the rain," I imagined them saying.
I stared out at the fields and kept on going.
"Have mercy on us, O Lord, have mercy on us, for we have endured much
contempt. We have endured much ridicule from the proud,
much contempt from the arrogant." I recited the verses to the falling
rain.
"Why Am I Doing This?"
Our foot pilgrimage was becoming more and more difficult for
us. Being a pilgrim had been exciting in the spring. Flowers colored
the roadsides and the promise of the future lightened each step. And being
a pilgrim had been rewarding in the summer. The days were long and the
nights were warm. Progress was steady and goals came easily.
But being a pilgrim when fall was turning into winter was not
easy. The days were harsh taskmasters and the long, cold nights came too
quickly.
It was almost December and we were still 500 miles from
Rome. I was tired and cold and wet. Another truck driver blasted his
horn. Another icy trickle ran between my shoulder blades. "Why am I
doing this?" I asked myself again.
I thought of the friends we'd made in the 2000 miles we'd
walked since Paris: the French girls, Sylvie and Aline, and Heinz and
Wolfram and Georges, who were fellow pilgrims. I thought of the Spanish
couple in Oviedo and the
family in Pamplona, and of
Angelo and Pina, an Italian couple we'd just met. I'd promised them
postcards when we got to Rome, them and 30 others like them. They were
rooting for us to make it.
I thought of friends in Portland, of the Bible study group
that prayed for us each Tuesday night, of the people who wrote faithfully,
keeping us up-to-date on life at home .
I thought of our families, too. They were praying for
us, supporting us, pulling for us. They shared in each joy, in each
accomplishment. We were doing this for all of them.
Friends and Places: Not Enough
Sometimes, though, on an awful day like this one, even
all those people weren't enough. We were enduring more than they
would ever understand.
And sometimes the dream of seeing Rome and Jerusalem wasn't
enough either. We could be to Rome by train in half a day, and a plane
could have us in Jerusalem soon after. But we were walking. It would
take us months.
No, it wasn't the new friends we'd made or the old ones who
supported us that kept us going. It wasn't the places we were seeing,
either. As I sloshed along the rainy Adriatic coast that afternoon,
I would have preferred a warm living room in Portland, Ore., to anyplace in the
world.
Terry's voice broke into my thoughts. "How are you
doing?" he asked. His seven-month pilgrim's beard scattered raindrops
as he talked. "I'm okay," I mumbled.
We escaped the main road about 4 p.m. "It'll be dark in an
hour," I thought. "Same old question-where do we sleep tonight?"
It was too miserable for us to camp. The only hotel
we'd seen all afternoon was out of our price range. We decided to ask for
help from a priest in the town we were walking to. All we wanted was a dry
floor to spread our sleeping bags on.
Dirty, Needy, and Offended
We made our way to the village church and stepped inside. We
leaned our packs in a corner, sat in a pew and bowed our heads. "Have mercy
on us. O Lord,'. was the prayer on both our hearts.
Terry looked up as the priest walked past, hurrying from one
duty to another. Terry stood and called out softly. The priest
stopped and studied us, a bit impatiently. I was squirming. After
walking 20 miles in the rain, I knew we were a sorry- looking pair of
pilgrims. The priest was about 35, and he was dressed in the brown robe of
the Franciscans. He didn't speak English, so we made our request in
Italian.
"We're walking to
Rome," Terry said, "We're on a pilgrimage. We need a place
to sleep. Can you help us?" The priest reacted
unexpectedly. Perhaps he was busy or perhaps he'd had a bad day. He
was angry with us. "Where am I supposed to put you?" he
snapped. "What do you expect me to do?" His voice
was filled with contempt. It was obvious he didn't want to deal with us.
I knew I looked poor and dirty and humble. I could see
he was a busy man. But I was deeply offended by his attitude. Terry
was angry. too. He turned to me. "Let's go," he said. "We'll find a place to
camp."
Then the priest caught himself, as if a light clicked on in
his head. He didn't want our problems, but we'd asked
for help. He couldn't ignore his Christian duty. He couldn't turn us
away. Calling us back, he began asking about our pilgrimage. He
thought a moment, then gestured for us to follow him. We trailed along
behind, our dripping rain hats in our hands.
The priest led us to a small school building near the
church. He brought us into a classroom, checked the heater, showed us the
bathrooms and the lights. Our enthusiasm for the room won him over at
last. He smiled and shook our hands before he left.
Because He Shows Us His Mercy
We cooked dinner, laid our sleeping bags on the floor, read,
and sipped coffee as the evening passed. And we sat and talked about what God
had taught us that day as pilgrims. We'd had a lesson in humility. We'd
seen what it's like to be laughed at for being different, to be scorned for
being needy. It hurts. And we'd realized how much we had left to learn
about being "poor in spirit." Our anger at the treatment
we'd received was proof of that.
Despite the day of terrible weather, despite the weariness I
felt that night, I was thankful for the things we'd learned that day-lessons our
pilgrimage had given us.
"As the eyes of slaves look to the hand of their master.
. . so our eyes look to the Lord our God, till He shows us
His mercy" (Psalm 123:2). Sometimes God's mercy can be found in a
sunny day; sometimes it shines in a rainy one. But it always comes.
We only have to keep looking.
I knew as I fell asleep that night why we kept on walking,
why we looked forward to the days of our pilgrimage with eagerness and joy--
despite the blisters, despite the pain, despite the rain. Each day we
walk, we look to God. Each day we learn to know Him better. Each day He
shows us His mercy.
A Feast of Reconciliation
When I walked across the hall to the bathroom the next
morning, a plump plastic bag was sitting beside our door. "Good
Morning" was written on a slip of paper on top of the bag. Underneath
the note, there were half a dozen carefully wrapped packages-sliced ham,
Parmesan cheese, fresh rolls, apples, a jar of mushrooms and sprigs of
parsley. It was a feast for our bodies and our hearts.
We went to the church office to say goodbye to the priest
before we left that morning. We thanked him for the shelter and the
food. He shrugged and waved his hand. We turned to go, ducking
through the doorway with our bulky packs, and he smiled warmly as I paused and
said, "We'll write you in a month--when we get to Rome."
Celebration in Rome
Karen and Terry Whitehill are on a
4000-mile pilgrimage from Paris to Jerusalem. They arrive
in Rome after walking more that 3000 miles.
We crawled out of our tent just as the sun
was climbing above the horizon on the morning of December 12. The frost
clung in icy slivers to the grass, and our breathing left puffs of fog as we
took down our "house" and lifted our packs to our shoulders. It was
7:30 a.m., an early start for us. We were eager to put some miles behind us
before afternoon. We had an appointment in Rome that day-an appointment at
St. Peter's Cathedral.
I thought back over the past three weeks as I walked that
morning. We had explored Venice and Ravenna, then we'd crossed Italy's
central spine of mountains and ventured into the hilly heartland of Tuscany.
We' d savored sunny days and starry nights, vineyards and olive groves.
Three thousand miles had come and gone, and we praised God each evening for
another day of progress.
But Rome was still ahead of us. The second major goal
of our pilgrimage was only 15 miles away. Traffic was miserable as we
neared the city. I hugged the narrow shoulder and watched the cars warily,
whispering prayers with each passing hour .
Road of Triumph
We swung away from the busy road at 2 p.m.
Rome was just ahead, but we needed to rest and eat before we continued in.
We found a hillside park and leaned our packs against an olive tree. Then
we sat beneath its branches and gazed out at a city of three million, a city of
churches and ruins and apartment buildings, a city that played a major role in
Christian history, a city we'd walked 3000 miles to see.
We ate our lunch of bread and cheese, hardly tasting the
food, feasting our eyes instead. Terry pointed out the landmarks: St.
Peter's dome, and the Forum. Our hearts rejoiced as we savored the sweetness of
the afternoon. Finally, it was time to go on. We lifted our packs
and started down the hill. The city swallowed us. Terry kept a close
eye on his map.
We followed a street called the Road of Triumph. It
seemed like an appropriate entry route for two rejoicing pilgrims. I
thought of the Psalm we'd been memorizing that week. "When the Lord
brought back the captives to Zion, we were like men who dreamed. Our
mouths were filled with laughter, our tongues with songs of joy" (Ps. 126:
1-2).
Terry led the way unerringly toward St. Peter's Square, and
we burst into the sunlit plaza and gazed in awe at
the vast church that dominates it. St. Peter's is the largest cathedral in
Europe, and it's built above the (supposed) tomb of the apostle Peter, the
"rock" on which Jesus said He would build His church. We left
the plaza to enter through the cathedral's doors, and we praised God for His
blessing as we walked in.
A golden ladder of sunlight was suspended across the front of
the sanctuary . The ceiling and pillars gleamed with gold. We walked to
the altar above Peter's tomb. A handful of worshipers were kneeling at the
railing-nuns, tourists, other pilgrims giving thanks. We chose a nearby
bench and bowed our heads together as we sat. Our whispered praises trembled in
the silence.
The Journey's Bounty
We turned away from St. Peter's Cathedral to face the task of
finding lodgings in the city. A small hotel half a mile away provided us
with an affordable room. We settled in happily. Christmas was 13 days
away. We planned to celebrate it in Rome, and we were looking forward to
spending the next two weeks falling in love with the city.
We spent Friday night relaxing; Saturday passed with assorted
errands. I had decided to wait until Sunday
night to call my parents, even though I was eager to let them know of our
arrival in Rome. That way, I figured, they'd be able to share their
excitement with everyone at church on Sunday morning.
I was anxious to make the call.
My father had been having health problems all summer, and my mother's last
letter had sounded very concerned. He was seeing a neurosurgeon, she
wrote. I knew I needed to check on him.
Saturday night I sat up until midnight writing postcards to
our friends. What a collection of addresses we
had-England, France, Belgium, Holland, West Germany, Spain, Italy. Each
name was a happy memory. I didn't mind writing the 30 postcards. Those
people were the bounty of our trip. Those friendships were evidence of God's
blessings.
'Then it was said among the nations. 'The Lord has done great
things for them.' The Lord has done great things for us, and we are
filled with joy" (Ps. 126: 2-3). Our Psalm was a picture of our
pilgrimage.
...Emergency in Portland
Shattered Joy
Sunday at 5 p.m. I called home, and our joy was turned to
grief. My mother fought to control her voice. My father had had a
brain scan that week, she told us. He had a large tumor behind his left
ear. There would be surgery as soon as possible.
I wept as I poured my sorrow into the
pages of' my journal after the call.
"Like a crystal goblet shattering, the delicate structure of our journey has
exploded into fragments," I wrote, "My phone call home to share our joy was turned to an
out flowing of sadness. My dad is having brain surgery . Oh
Lord, everything has fallen into pieces, and my mind is torn by all the
fragments."
And so Terry and I were faced with a decision. My family was in trouble.
My father was seriously ill; my
mother and sisters desperately needed support. They wouldn't ask me to come
home. They knew how much our journey meant to us.
Yet we both knew I should be with them, even as our hearts
yearned to complete the final portion of our pilgrimage. Jerusalem was ahead of
us -the city of David, the city of our Savior's death and resurrection. God had
brought us so far in eight months. Was this to be the end?
Letting Go: A Journey In-Between
Throughout the hours of tears and prayers and struggling, we prayed for guidance.
We begged for wisdom. We
talked. We prayed again. Our Psalm spoke the prayer in our hearts,
"Restore our
fortunes, O Lord, like streams in the Negev" (Ps. 126:4).
Finally we reached a decision. I would fly to Portland to be with my
parents through the surgery. Terry would take a train to the home of a family
friend in Germany and wait for my return. We couldn't bear the expense of two
emergency plane tickets. So we decided to trust the Lord to bring us back
together. If He led us to go on, I'd fly back and we'd walk out of Rome in January.
If He led us to something else, we'd accept
that. And we'd praise Him for the eight months we'd had.
Terry walked me to the airport bus on Tuesday morning.
It was
the beginning of a 22-hour trip. I flew from Rome to New York City, seeking
consolation in my journal as I traveled across the Atlantic.
"After a day of tears and turmoil, we went to the travel agent
last night and bought my ticket to Portland," I wrote. "This afternoon I
sit inside a massive plane that carries me across the ocean. Terry is back in
Rome, so far away from me that I tremble at the thought of it. And I'm somewhere in between-in between my family
and my husband, in between life as it is and life as I wanted it to be, in between suffering and joy.
"Still, I feel a peace that began when we bought the ticket
yesterday," I continued. "I've let go of what I wanted. I've let go
of my plans, of my security, of my dreams. It's all in God's hands now, and that
is where it must be. Oh Lord, take care of those I love."
Sow in Tears, Reap with Joy
After a long wait in New York, I flew on to Seattle. Another
hour and I was in the air again. The plane was dark as we rumbled toward Portland. It was
midnight and home was only 20 minutes away. I was exhausted, frightened, sad-and I needed to be strong.
I knew Terry was praying for me. I could feel his supplications, like strong hands lifting me into God's
presence. The lessons of our pilgrimage were with me too-eight months of
relying on God's faithfulness, His power, and His love. I prayed for my family
and Terry in the darkness.
Then I claimed the promise in Psalm 126 as the plane bounced
lightly on the runway and shuddered to a stop. "Those who sow in tears will
reap with songs of joy. He who goes out weeping, carrying seed to sow, will
return with songs of joy, carrying sheaves with him" (Ps. 126:5-6).
Sojourn in 'The
Valley of the Shadow'
In Rome after walking over 3000 miles -Karen received word that her father had to have brain surgery, and she made an emergency trip back to Portland, Ore. , to be with her family. The following, is a diary of those days at home.
I sat at an empty table in my parents'
kitchen on the second Saturday in January. The clock ticked toward
midnight as my mother slept in another room. Everything seemed so
familiar. At first it had seemed foreign when I'd arrived in Portland 26
days earlier.
I thought back to that night, remembering the fear and
uncertainty I'd felt. Then I leafed through the pages of my journal, reliving
the four weeks I'd spent with my family-our sojourn in "the valley of the
shadow."
December 17
My mom and my sister Sue were waiting when I got off the
plane. There were no tears-only hugs and smiles; it wasn't too traumatic,
Sue's husband and their three kids were waiting when we got home.
My dad woke up enough for me to say hello to him, He seems
very weak, very limited by his body. His mind is still there, though. I
hope he knows how much I love him.
It's going to be a tough week. I don't know what's in
store. All I can do is watch and pray.
December 18
My dad was pretty lucid today, I'm afraid he's
beginning to think about the brain surgery. It must be terribly
frightening, to know your body has turned on you, to feel your senses slipping
away. Oh, how I want to instill a desire for life in him.
December 19
I'm weary tonight, weary and lonesome for Terry.
How many days has it been now? How many more to go? Too many.
Please keep him safe, Lord. Please bring us back together.
December 20
Tonight before he went to bed my dad got down on his
knees on the floor beside his pillow, and my heart murmured with the memory of
all the times I've seen him pray. Oh Lord, please heal him.
December 22
We were up at 5 a.m., preparing for the trip to
the hospital. The streets were dark and the rain fell steadily as we
drove. My dad was quiet. So were my mom and I. There wasn't
much to say.
We got him checked in, then waited two and a half hours for
the angiogram to begin. It broke my heart to watch my mom whisper "I
love you" and to see my dad close his eyes and say "I love you, too," before they
took him away.
Then at 2 p.m. the neurosurgeon appeared to drop the bomb
that blew up the day: he wants to postpone surgery for 15 days. We
listened grimly as he gave the reasons. It was devastating to all of us.
My dad couldn't hear the doctor's words, but he could see our faces. I
wanted to put my fist through a wall.
My mom and I went home soon afterwards. I had my mom
sitting down in her chair with tea and soup and Christmas cards before she broke
down. We wept together, holding each other and letting the tears
flow. It's the first time I can remember her really crying since the news
of her mother's death. But that was a quiet
suffering. This was anguished. I tried to comfort her . Thank you,
Lord, that I was there.
December 24
It's an odd Christmas Eve. There's a lot of sadness
in our celebration this year, a lot of pain and uncertainty. But perhaps
the promise of Christmas is more needed this year, too. We need the hope that Jesus brings.
I'll never forget the images I have from this time, the
glimpse of my mom and dad through the bathroom door, my mom holding the mirror
while my dad sits and shaves. There is so much beauty in their
relationship right now, so much love. They are one body, and one part is
ministering to the other. There is such tenderness and love on my mother's
part, such patience on my father's.
It's not a merry Christmas. There's too much pain for
that. But we have much to be thankful for, and we have the joy of knowing
Christ is in us.
December 25
Life isn't predictable these days. The brain
surgery seemed imminent when I was in Rome, then it became a matter of
days. Next the doctor ordered a two-week wait, and suddenly it's days
again. All that's certain is that nothing is.
Our Christmas day became a surreal scene of ambulance attendants, a
stretcher. a rainy drive to the hospital. My dad was slipping away from
us. There were tests and talks and agonizing hours of waiting. It looks like the surgery
could be early next week. Why does sickness have to be so horrible?
December 28
Psalm 91 is the promise I want to claim
tonight. The surgery is set for tomorrow afternoon, I hurt for my
parents. My dad has been through so much suffering in the last six months, and my mom has
suffered with him. It hurts to see her fear.
What do we do in times like these? How do we
pray? How do we trust? We believe. We believe. We rest
in the shadow of His wings.
December 29-30
It was a long morning of waiting, the beginning of a
longer day. Finally, they came to take my dad to the operating room.
My mom and I walked beside him. He didn't seem to know what was
happening. My mom whispered an "I love you," and he summoned the
energy to whisper back. I kissed him and promised we'd be waiting.
"For God hath not given us the spirit of
fear; but of power, and of love, and of a sound mind" (2 Timothy 1: 7, KJV).
I found this verse in dad's Bible last night. I turned to it as the ninth
hour of surgery melted into the tenth, and Paul's words shouted hope into the
despairing silence of the waiting room.
Finally, at 2:15 a.m., the doctor came
out. My dad came through! The news was cause for great
rejoicing. We watched them push him into intensive care, then waited 90
minutes before they let us see him. We turned for home at 5 a.m., crushed
with weariness but murmuring praises to the Lord for answered prayer.
December 31
What a draining time this has been. I'm emotionally
exhausted. And the decision I have to make this week exhausts me even
more. What am I to do, Lord? I want to go back to Terry and our
pilgrimage, yet when I see my dad wrapped in bandages and hooked up to tubes and
machines, I can't bear the thought of leaving him. And when I see my
mother at the end of her strength, weeping from her burden, my heart nearly
breaks. What am I to do?
Fifteen minutes left in this year as I write. I don't
like beginning the new one apart from Terry. The past year was full of
discovery and growth. The corning year is unknown. I'm weary
tonight. I need to pray.
January 4
Well, the doctor came to talk to us yesterday afternoon.
I
hated the pain I saw in my parents' faces when he gave us the news. He
wants to do another surgery : he didn't get enough of the tumor the first
time. My dad was crushed. His face sagged with sudden weariness. My
mom stood beside him and rubbed his shoulders.
How do we pray, Lord? What do we say? I want to whisper,
"Why, why?" We hold onto each other, encouraging each
other, drawing on our faith. We ask for a miracle. We ask for God's
tenderness. We ask for His comfort for our burdened hearts.
January 7
My dad fought another battle today. And all over the
city, the state, the country, there were Christians fighting with him.
There were five churches in Portland praying for him, and there were friends and
relatives all over the United States. Terry was praying too, in
Europe. And my dad made it through another six and a half hours of brain
surgery .
I praise God that my father is still with us. I praise
God that the tears in my mother's eyes tonight were tears of weariness, not
tears of grief. Our family rejoices. We have our father, our
grandfather, our husband. Our friends rejoice. George Obinger made it
through.
"He Will Deliver Us"
A verse I found in a missionary letter in our church bulletin
a few weeks ago has become the theme our hearts are singing. "He has
delivered us from such a deadly peril, and He will deliver us. On Him we
have set our hope that He will continue to deliver us, as you help us by your
prayers. Then many will give thanks on our behalf for the gracious favor
granted us in answer to the prayers of many" (2 Corinthians 1:10-11).
I know there are battles still ahead. The doctor said
the tumor isn't beaten. My father has a long recovery ahead. There
will be many trials to face. My mother has a long fight too. She
goes through every struggle with him.
But for tonight, it's enough to praise God-for answered
prayer, for His love, for life. It's enough to know that the surgeries are
behind us. It's enough to hold my mom and tell her dad will soon be home
again. It's enough to be able to telephone Terry across the ocean and say,
"I love you. I'm coming back. We're walking to Jerusalem."
Walking Where Paul Walked: Friendship in a Muslim Land
Karen and Terry Whitehill are on a
4000-mile pilgrimage, walking from Paris to Jerusalem. Reunited after
Karen's trip back to the U.S. because of a family emergency, Karen and Terry leave Rome and arrive in Turkey.
We walked out of Rome, glad to be on our way again, eager
to explore the roads that would lead us toward Jerusalem. Our first
days of walking brought new blisters, tired muscles and chilly
nights. We hurried north toward Ancona
and a ferry to Greece -and
toward warmer weather.
What a change a 30-hour ferry ride can make. It
was delightfully warm in Patras
when we landed. The snow along the roadsides in Italy was banished to the
mountaintops in Greece. Instead of the bare vineyards we'd trudged past in
Italy, bright citrus groves and blossoming almond trees lined our way as we
walked east toward Corinth and Athens. The heralds of spring were all around us
giving new enthusiasm to our winter-weary spirits.
From Athens we sailed for the island of Rhodes,
and our excitement increased as we drew closer to Israel.
We chose Rhodes as a stopping place for two reasons: one, because it has an
ancient harbor at Lindos where
the apostle Paul
landed on his final journey to Jerusalem, and two, because it was our access
point for entry into Turkey.
We spent five days walking on the island, visiting
Lindos's harbor and savoring the warm weather. Then we climbed aboard a
boat for Turkey, the land where Paul had taken the gospel message in the early days of
Christianity.
Reaching Asian Soil
We shared our ferry ride with Doug, a 60-year-old
American business man who was traveling alone. We'd met him at a cafe in
Rhodes the night before, and Terry and he had struck up a friendship. We
were glad for the opportunity to tell him about our pilgrimage and to express
our love for the Lord as we
made the three-hour crossing. As we talked, I
wondered how many shipboard friendships the apostle Paul had made in his
countless journeys on the very sea we were sailing that afternoon.
Our first steps on Asian soil gave me a thrill of
excitement. This was the "Anatolia"
of the New Testament, where some of the earliest Christian churches had begun to
shake the Roman world to its foundations. We planned to walk from Marmaris,
on Turkey's Mediterranean coast, to Ephesus,
about 160 miles northwest on the shore of the Aegean
Sea.
Ephesus was a city of 250,000 during Paul's time, and it's
famous for its ruined Temple
of Artemis, one of the seven wonders of the ancient world. For Terry
and me the city was important as the site of the Ephesian
church, where John wrote his Gospel and Paul spent two years witnessing to
the Gentiles.
But Turkey is a bastion of Christian faith no longer. Today
it's a Muslim nation with one of the lowest percentages of
professing Christians of any country in the world. I was a little nervous about spending three
weeks in a country where a "Christian pilgrimage" would have no
meaning to the people we encountered along the way.
Liras and Skullcaps
It was almost 5 p.m. by the time we said goodbye to Doug
and dove into the old town of Marmaris. We were anxious to get out of the
city and find a place to camp. We stopped at a bakery to buy a loaf of
bread for dinner and shook our heads in amazement when the storekeeper asked for
80 Turkish liras-about ten cents!
Prices weren't the only changes we saw
that evening. Marrnaris is a town of several thousand people, yet the road
was unpaved in many places. Men in knit skullcaps watched us from every
doorway, calling out "hellos." Very few women were on the
streets. Those we saw were out on shopping errands, their heads covered by
bright cotton scarves .
We climbed away from town on a road that was busy with trucks
and buses. Every driver honked and waved. I was praying for a camp
spot and a bit of quietness. It was dark by the time we found a level
patch of ground among the pines. I crawled inside the tent with a sigh.
"Thank you, Lord, for familiar things," I wrote in my journal that night.
We woke at dawn and prayed for our families, for our new
friend Doug and for our days in Turkey. We were on our way by nine.
So were the trucks and buses-fleets of them. We had a dozen ride offers in
our first three miles of walking. The drivers smiled and shrugged when we
refused. It was all we could do to sputter out a six-syllable Turkish
thank you. How would we ever explain a Christian pilgrimage?
Turkish Hospitality
There were hills and pines and honking trucks for a few
more hours, then we descended into Gokova,
a fishing village set on the inland tip of a 40-mile bay. We were hoping to make a ferry connection there, which would eliminate 30 miles
of the busy road to Ephesus.
"This is the kind of thing Paul must have done a
lot," Terry said as he led us toward the docks. "He was always
looking for a boat to his next mission field."
"But at least he spoke the language," I thought to
myself as we approached a group of fishermen. Terry started talking with
his hands and map. Then the oldest of the men, Sami, volunteered some
English to help us out. He'd been to Chicago and Duluth on a Korean
merchant ship, he told us. He also told us there was no chance of catching
a boat ride. Ferries didn't run in the winter, and the fishermen didn't go
out that far. We'd have to walk.
We sat beside the harbor and considered our options. A
boat ride had sounded so appealing. The four-mile hill outside of town
looked much less pleasant. We were trying to decide whether to camp early or
tackle the hill that afternoon when Sami approached us. "Will you drink
some Turkish tea with
us?" he asked. We smiled and nodded .
And so we sat beside the harbor and sipped glasses of dark,
sweet tea with Sami, Genghis, Sali and Mustafa. We told them about our
walk, explaining that we were following medieval routes of pilgrimage. We
showed them photos of our families and listened while they talked about boat
motors and fish.
Tea led to an invitation to spaghetti, and soon we were
eating platefuls of oily noodles from a newspaper table- cloth. We
devoured doughy hunks of bread and sampled fresh fish in oil, a contribution
from a passing fisherman.
The sun was low on the horizon when we finally rose to leave.
We planned to spend the evening at a campground on the edge of town. But then Sami called over Menderes, a young man who had just arrived.
"You can
sleep at his house," he said.
Terry and I looked at each other and smiled, "I think I
like Turkey," I whispered.
"That I May Declare It Fearlessly"
During the ten-minute walk to his house, Menderes told us
about his summer work on a tourist yacht and his winter job as a
fisherman. Menderes's mother,
Fatma, was waiting for
us on the porch when we arrived. She had on a flowing white scarf, a red
knit sweater and a pair of the vast cotton "pajamas" that Turkish women
wear. She also had one of the broadest smiles I'd ever seen.
She shook our hands enthusiastically and welcomed us
inside. Then she disappeared into the kitchen and began cooking with a
vengeance. The evening was a treasure--new sights, new tastes, new
friends.
Menderes' s sister, 21-year-old Nilufer, was eager to
practice the English she'd been studying, and I was glad to have a tutor
for my Turkish. We brought out our map and our photographs, trying to
explain about our trip. I found myself wishing, as I have so many times,
that we had the words to tell our new friends more about our faith in Christ.
And so we spent our second night in Turkey in a humble
farmhouse on the edge of a small village. It had outdoor plumbing, a woodstove
for heat, and a fire in the kitchen for cooking. We had very little in
common with our new friends. We had different nationalities, languages,
economic levels and religions.
Yet they had taken us in and shared their home. And we'd
become friends. We exchanged addresses before we left, and we assured them
we'd try to visit again. Paul's request to the Ephesian church was the
desire of my heart as we walked away the next morning, bound for Ephesus.
"Pray also for me, that whenever I open my mouth, words
may be given me so that I will fearlessly make known the mystery of the gospel.
.. pray that I may declare it fearlessly, as I should" (Eph. 6:19-20).
We'll be praying for Menderes, Nilufer and Fatma, for Doug,
for the many friends of our pilgrimage. And we'll be praying that we would
have the words for them.
'All of a Christian's Life Is a Pilgrimage'
Where have the months gone?
It's April 28, 1987, and April 1986 seems worlds away as I write this
morning. The day we began our walk in Paris seems like a half-forgotten
dream. All the blisters we suffered from in the spring of our pilgrimage
are nothing more than a memory today.
The rainy afternoons of fall and the long, cold nights of
winter are gone. The sun is turning our skin brown again. A spring
breeze drifts across the Judean hills and blows my hair in shadows across this
page. It's our final day in Jerusalem, and Portland is only 45 hours away.
I glance at Terry lying in the grass beside our tent.
He's reading our battered New Testament, reviewing the treasure of verses we've
learned this year.
We began with Micah 6:8 the night we flew away from Portland.
"He has showed you, O man, what is good. And what does the Lord require of
you? To act justly and to love mercy and to walk humbly with your
God." Indeed, He has shown us how good it is to walk with Him.
Pain, Faithfulness, and Joy
The journey has been difficult at times: homesickness, my
father's illness, struggles with fear and isolation. But God has been
faithful.
Our pilgrimage has been a physical challenge, too. The
day we walked into Jerusalem was one of the hardest days of our entire
trip.
In 11 hours of walking, we climbed from the Dead
Sea, at 1300 feet below sea
level, to the Mount of
Olives, at 2700 feet above sea
level.
We walked 30 miles that day, and I was praying for strength
the entire way. I'd picked up an intestinal infection from well water we'd
been given while walking through the hills of Samaria, and I wasn't sure I'd
make it up the hill. But God gave me the strength I needed, and we were
standing in the shadow of St.
Stephen's Gate that evening, feasting our eyes on
our first look at Jerusalem.
"I rejoiced with those who said to me, 'Let us go to the
house of the Lord.' Our feet are standing in your gates, O Jerusalem" (Ps.
122:1-2). Terry whispered the words as we walked into the city. Our
bodies ached with weariness, but our spirits soared with silent praise to God.
Five days later, Palm Sunday, we passed through St.
Stephen's Gate again, part of a procession that numbered in the
thousands. People were singing hymns and praising God in dozens of
languages.
Terry and I shared the walk with a group of Roman Catholic
nuns we'd met at a prayer meeting a few weeks earlier. We were singing
"Hosanna to the King" and waving palm fronds with friends from Ghana,
Uganda, Zimbabwe,
Bangladesh, Korea,
Taiwan, Missouri, and
California. What a
joyous day it was.
Waiting and Wondering: What Next?
We explored Jerusalem in bits and pieces during the next
week, visiting one or two sites a day and wandering the market streets. We
phoned our families to tell them of our arrival in Jerusalem, and we had to
fight back our disappointment when my mother told us we couldn't get a flight
home for another 15 days. Jerusalem was packed with visitors for Passover and
Easter, and all the flights had been booked for months.
So we passed the days quietly, waiting to go
home. We sought out other Christians for fellowship. We attended Shabbat
services at a Southern Baptist church, went to a Bible study with a
fellowship of Messianic Jews, and attended a foot-washing ceremony with our
Catholic friends. We sat in the lovely surroundings of the Garden
Tomb on Good Friday,
reading the crucifixion story from the book of John and staring at a lonely
hill.
Yet, even with all the fellowship, all the atmosphere, all
the spiritual invigoration of being in Jerusalem on the most joyous day of the
Christian year, I woke up on Easter
Sunday feeling gloomy, homesick, and directionless. Perhaps it was the
chilly wind that threw the April rain against our tent. Perhaps it was the
thought of home, of our families gathering together without us.
Terry and I had been pilgrims for a
year. We'd had a goal, a destination, a purpose. The Lord had
blessed us and brought us safely to Jerusalem. But what was next?
Easter Company
We'd planned to attend a sunrise service at the Garden Tomb
on Easter Sunday, but the wet morning changed our minds. We walked to the
Lutheran church in the Old City instead, hoping to catch an English worship
service .
My mood turned gloomier as I sat in the pew that
morning. I wanted to be home, and I had ten more days to wait. I
didn't even go forward to take communion at the end. I just stayed in the
pew and prayed.
There was a coffee hour after the service. The
congregation milled about and talked, a mixture of Jerusalem residents and
foreign tourists . Terry and I introduced ourselves to a young Swedish woman
named Mona. She had quit her job as a school-teacher to travel. She
was working on a kibbutz in
the Galilee region, she told us, and she'd taken a bus to Jerusalem so she could
be in the city on Easter Sunday. We invited her to join us.
The three of us decided to walk toward the Mount of
Olives. The rain clouds had drifted off, and the afternoon was turning
sunny. Terry and I began to tell Mona about our pilgrimage, explaining our
desire to dedicate a year to Bible study, Bible memorization, and exploration of
our faith.
We walked to the base of the Mount of Olives and turned to
look back at Jerusalem. The city looked magnificent, its 400- year-old
walls glowing in the sun.
Sharing the Faith
"See that gateway?" I said to Mona, pointing to
a pair of blocked-in arches in the eastern wall. "It's called the Beautiful
Gate. The Jews have a tradition that
says the Messiah will come through that
gate when He arrives in glory in Jerusalem." Mona studied the gate with
interest.
"It has significance to us as Christians,
too," I continued, "because we believe that Jesus Christ
will return to Jerusalem in glory and power someday."
"And He'll come to all the earth as well,"
Terry added.
Mona looked at us quizzically. "You mean you
really believe that?" she asked. "You really believe that Jesus
is coming back?"
"Yes, we do," I answered.
"I'm not so sure," Mona said. "I have too many
questions. I wish I was as certain of what I believe as you two are."
And so we talked away the afternoon. Mona asked us
questions, and Terry and I took turns answering. She'd read the New Testament.
She was familiar with the foundations of
Christianity. She just didn't have the faith to go with the knowledge-not
yet.
We walked her to the bus stop in the afternoon. We
exchanged addresses and urged her to visit us in Oregon. She gave us each
a hug before she boarded her bus.
A Pilgrim's Work Is Never Done
As Terry and I turned back toward our campground that
evening, our hearts were joyful. Perhaps we would have to "tarry in
Jerusalem." But we weren't sad any longer. Our journey wasn't
finished after all. Our pilgrimage wasn't done.
For all of a Christian's life is a pilgrimage, and the
Lord has given all of us a message to proclaim along the way-in Jerusalem, in
Judea, in the uttermost parts of the earth. Jesus is alive. Jesus is the
Messiah. Jesus is coming back again. And when He does, He'll take His people
home.
"By faith Abraham, when called to go to a place he
would later receive as his inheritance, obeyed and went, even though he did not
know where he was going. By faith he made his home in the promised land
like a stranger in a foreign country; he lived in tents, as did Isaac and Jacob,
who were heirs with him of the same promise. For he was looking forward to
the city with foundations, whose architect and builder is God."
(Hebrews. 11:8-10).
Karen Whitehill
Karen and Terry Whitehill are members of Temple Baptist Church, Portland,
Ore. "Europe by Bike," by the Whitehills has recently been published
by Mountaineers, a Seattle-based outdoor lifestyle book publisher. The
paperback sells for $10.95. The Whitehills have completed their
pilgrimage and left Israel April 29 for their home in Portland.